Dog behaviourist - Choosing one?

I was sent an email the other day and a few lines really stood out:

"We have spent a lot of money on training classes, (which i have no problem with) also we consulted a person, advertising himself as a "dog whisperer" I think he had watched Cesar Millan and styled himself on him, sadly, he did not have the same energy flow and was rather an expensive brute !"

Prospective clients, please be sure to thoroughly research anybody you are considering coming to your home. Yes, we all started somewhere as behaviour practitioners, we all had our first job(s). Mine was unforgettable-a Bassett called Elvis.

With the advent of programmes such as Cesar and Stillwell and Dog Borstal it has increased exposure and interest greatly. This is no bad thing, but some practitioners take these programmes as their training course!

Seek testimonials and then call these people. Ask awkward questions, such as how long will the visits last, what equipment might be used (or not used). What training has the practitioner had and anything else you can think of.

For the record, I welcome any amount of awkward questions you like to ask, can furnish you with many testimonials, and am willing to pre meet with you if distance is acceptable. Allowing somebody into your home and handle your dog is an intimate experience, and trust in your trainer should be high on your shopping list.

Nick Jones MCFBA

Bloat/ Gastric Torsion

The dogs that are most susceptible are those that have a deep ribcage for example, labs, retrievers, shepherds... you get the idea.  However, ANY dog can get bloat.  Remember the golden rule, never ever exercise after feeding - leave at least a minimum of 2 hours... better still, mimic your dogs natural behaviour and walk first then eat...

BLOAT  The Killer

If you experience a combination of the following:

•     Your dog retches from the throat but nothing is produced other than small amounts of frothy mucus

•     Your dog tries to defaecate unsuccessfully

•     Your dog adopts the ‘Sphinx’ position

•     Your dog’s tummy goes hard and / or swells up like a balloon and is as taut as drumskin

•     Trying to bite, or worry, the abdomen

•     Your dog is very unsettled

CONTACT YOUR VET IMMEDIATELY.

Bloat is a true emergency - be prepared to drive to the surgery straightaway. The chance of survival decreases alarmingly if you

delay getting the dog to the surgery more than 60-90 minutes after the first signs.

So whether you’re about to catch a plane, serve a meal to your family or go to bed - DON’T. Instead take your dog to the vet.

It could save your dog’s life.

www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk

Interesting correspondence for you...

This might provoke a little thought as it did for me. I was sent this email recently. Published with consent.

" Hi Nick,

I'm at university in South Wales. Dog behaviour is something I was thinking about doing afterwards as a career.

I asked because you've had lots of official training and I don't think that Cesar has. According to his books, he grew up around dogs and liked to watch and observe them. That's what he bases his philosophies on.

Also, I've been following his methods for the past year with my dog, and it seems to have worked, but I wonder if it's not as black and white as Cesar makes out. The Wolf Man, Shaun Elllis goes into more detail about relationships wolves have with each other, and since dogs are 99% wolf, I figured that he might have a point. I was wondering what your view on it was?

Thanks for replying!"

Nick says:

Hi Gavin. The best training anyone can have in this line of work is quite honestly hands on experience doing the job day in and day out. So I guess I share that with Cesar. I am in the process of taking a PG degree to basically validate my knowledge as it's a work-based learning degree. www.cidbt.org.uk

When you've worked with lots of different dogs you get inside their heads to a degree and your work becomes easier as you'll make a good decision first time more often than not.

Nothing is truly black and white as you say. The best skill you can develop with dogs and people is to remain flexible. What might be a perfect approach with one dog could not work at all with another, so to stick to one philosophy or approach is a mistake in my opinion. Some dogs respond well to an assertive approach yes, others could crumble with that and a clicker could help. Keep the mind and techniques open I say.

The vast majority dogs respond well to a clear set of rules to live by which brings a sense of balance in the dog, and it knows where it's at so to speak. So yes, Cesar has it right when he says exercise, discipline and affection for sure. Some of his methods leave a bit to be desired in my view, but America (even the breeds they own) do things differently, so this needs taking into account. Programme editing makes it look good too of course!

Just remember that there is no single right (or wrong) way of solving behaviour problems. Just like art, every artist will do it differently, but still end with his or her own piece of art. Not sure if that's a great analogy, but you get my meaning?

I know very little indeed about wolves, and for ages I felt almost too embarrassed to mention it to anyone. But my theory now is that I don't work with wolves...I work with dogs and people. I know quite a bit about both of those...though the learning curve never ends of course ;)

Hope that offers some more answers for you?

Best wishes,

Nick

www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk

English Bulldog - Leg humping

This months reply for DforDog web site.

[Name] = Stacy
[County] = Gainsborough/ Lincolnshire
[Country] = UK
[Training Question] = We have a beautiful 8 year old laid back/stubborn typical British Bulldog, who is just gorgeous & we love very much. But he has one problem. He humps (and continues to hump) every visitor to the house, legs! He is 35kg so not a small bully, and I find it hard to get him to stop it. He also humps my leg too. Doesn’t bother any other member of the family (husband & 3 children) just me! And it gets worse if my husband gives me a cuddle; Buster the bully tries to interfere with the cuddle by humping my leg.
I would really appreciate it if you could guide me in the right direction as to how to handle this problem.



Hello Stacy and thank you for the question to DforDog.
As you say a 35Kg Bulldog is a lot of dog to have attached to your leg!
I suspect he is controlling the situation (and you) to a large degree, and has learnt that this is an excellent way to gain and then keep attention. It may have been reinforced by other people laughing when he does it at some earlier point?

If like many homes you don’t have a predictable stream of visitors it can be a slow road to changing his attitude towards such an event. What I would encourage you to do here is to set up a number of people to come over so you can then also put in place a few changes so he cannot get to them and is able to indulge in this behaviour.
I do advocate that a dog should be calm and relaxed before we give interest or affection upon greetings. To fuss an already excitable dog will only serve to reinforce his behaviour, and we can then see more of it next time. So, visitors (and family members) should fully ignore him until he is calm when they enter the home.

How do we keep control of him as people enter the house? The simple answer is to set up a secure wall fixing point in a room such as the lounge or hallway away from the door areas.. My local B&Q make a three-inch square metal plate that can be drilled and fixed onto the wall. This had a D ring protruding whereby a lead can be attached to it. As the visitor pulls up at your home, you then roll in to him a large Kong stuffed with Nature Diet. This allows a strong distraction, and a change of events from his old rehearsed routine. I use this in many scenarios with great effect. It’ll take him about 15 minutes to empty the Kong (try to coincide it with a meal time) and during this time you remain hands free, no embarrassing humping to the poor visitor, and your stress levels return to normal. As is always the case I’d like to say that there are of course other ways of addressing this behaviour, but in the absence of a conversation with you I’m offering what I hope to be a balanced answer that is likely to work.

Once he has emptied the Kong and he is looking calm, you can place a fresh lead on him and detach him from the wall point. Then walk him over to the guest and ask for a sit. Your guest is to do nothing at this point and should only act when you ask them to do so.
Once he is sitting and looking good your visitor can offer the back of the hand for a sniff and then if this remains good you can allow further petting. Keep it calm and short and then walk him away. If I were to imagine that the dog was extremely insistent on the humping and went straight into it I would immediately walk him out of the room and implement a time out. Simply walk him so he can be placed behind a door and close the door on the lead giving him a couple of feet to move on the other side. Say nothing and wait for up to one minute so that he is calm and quiet. Once this happens you can walk him back into the room to study his calm state (or not) and then try the above greeting again. He must be sitting for attention by the way. If he so much as goes into the humping routine, you are to repeat the time out without delay so he sees the being alone for a short spell as an immediate negative outcome. Be nice and sweet…he stays and gains affection. Start humping…and he finds himself removed and alone for a short spell.
It is a fairly ‘dry’ approach, but 35KG of humping dog is not funny in my view. This would probably hurt frankly! Two or three time outs will sort it for most dogs. You may not need to do any as the Kong may guide him through the initial excitement anyway.

Cuddles with husband. Again, I see it as an ownership issue of the dog to you, and he is not happy that he is not involved. I would aim to place up to 100% of his daily intake via the Kong and Nature Diet route, and have plenty of cuddles on the sofa in view of the dog as he works on the Kong. You should to ignore him when he has the Kong. If you were to break his daily intake into four smaller meals via the Kong, each meal could be when you have a visitor coming to you, or a cuddle with hubby.

In the mean time, I want you to work on the sit before affection throughout the day and where possible. For this you could keep back a quarter of his daily food so as you ask him to sit, and he does so you can drop him some food for reward. Ask him to sit generally speaking when you offer him anything Stacy. Exiting through doorways to toilet, before water and meals. Ask for a sit before anything that might be seen as an offering from you to him.
Think dog for the coming weeks, and ensure you are being a leader to him and not a follower. Be firm but fair so he understands you are leading him, not the other way round. Ensure the family are following your example so that the consistent approach from the whole family will support you.

Contact me directly if you would like a hand out to accompany the wall point introduction.

Best of luck!

Nick Jones MCFBA

www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk

Keeping your dog cool in the heat...

Keep your dog cool this summer

Summer is well and truly with us, and as I write we are experiencing a mini heat wave in the UK.

My old girl Amber used to know the phrase 'In the shade', and she would go to a cool spot and stay there when hot (quite sensible I thought!). Little Pip the Border terrier however knows nothing of common sense and will stay in the intense sun until she is near to meltdown. As a result I keep her in the shade or in a well ventilated cool room for her own good.

Free access to water is of course essential for both man and dog in this weather so do be sure to keep the dog well watered. Just plain clean tap water is sufficient. Dogs are lactose intolerant, so no milk and so on.

If it's too hot for you to walk bare foot on the pavement (for example) then it'll be too hot for your dog too! Avoid exercising your dog at peak sun hours and go for early morning or late evening walks. Take a water bottle and possibly a collapsible water bowl too for regular water stops.

Be on the alert for heat stroke. I have seen the opposite whereby my ol' girl Amber once went into hypothermia when walking in freezing rain on a lake district peak with me. She should have had a Gore Tex kit like what I did ;) Hyperthermia is the excess of heat build up and equally as dangerous for a dog. Early signs of this might include rapid breathing, heavy panting, salivation. Also fatigue tremors, and staggering. If you see this and feel concerned, get the dog into shade, and apply wet towels if possible. Offer small amounts of water and call your vet (always carry that number with you). At worse I would be prepared to dial 999, or 118247 in the UK and they can put you through to a nearest vet if you're away from home.

Did you know that for your own safety you can insert an entry in your mobile phone under ICE-name (In Case of Emergency) and then the number you'd like the emergency services to call if you're out of action or involved in an accident?

Watch out for sunburn! Pale or white dogs and those with very short coat can suffer on the nose and back. I have often placed a dob of lotion of my dog's nose and rubbed it in past the licking point! Sprays or aerosols are good along the back too if the coat is short enough for the sun to hit the skin on the back. On the beach all day? Dig down to a cool level or provide a small pop up tent!

Certain breeds may be more susepible to the heat too. Such breeds would include the boxer, bulldogs, pugs, Lhasa Apsos, Shih Tzus and so on. These breeds have a job breathing at the best of times, so be careful in the extra heat. Dogs with heavy coats such as the Old English and so on should be clipped out nicely to allow a cooler summer. I love the idea of a long haired Shepherd for myself, but these dense coats put me off thinking about how to keep the dog cool at times. I would (funds allowing) consider an air conditioned environment for such a thick coated dog.

Dogs that carry an excess of weight can feel the heat too, so be kind and keep your dog trim :)

Dogs in cars. You would be shocked how quickly the temperature rises when a car is parked up (even with the windows down a little). This is just a bad idea full stop. Don't do it. The dog should only be in the car when with yo, and with the air con on. I often place the car in the shade at home prior to going out with the dog, and leave it running air con on full blast to get a nice starting temperature. I admit that I obsess a little about keeping things cool or warm accordingly, but remember your dog can't talk, so it pays to go the extra mile. Imagine what it musty be like with a coat on too. Going back to the car situation, I did an exercise for my local radio station a couple of years back as it was an article surrounding leaving dogs in cars in connection to a local game fayre. Thankfully I keep the notes in a file (quicker to find than on my PC!) and here are the notes I made whilst in the car:

I started with the car in direct sunlight with the air conditioning on to begin with. I wore shorts and a t-shirt. To begin with the temperature in the car was 25 Celsius. I had a small thermometer with me to keep record.

I then wound the windows up and the engine was turned off. Withing four minutes the temp had raised to 33 degrees Celsius! It was already feeling very warm and 'like an oven' quoting my notes.

Another six minutes on and the temperature had hit 37 degrees (99 Far.) I was at that time running with sweat.

After a full 15 minutes the car was 40 degrees Celsius inside (105 Far.) and I was gasping...I had to get out of the car. Imagine Fido that maybe be already warmed up after a dog walk/run and you then repeat this by dropping into Tesco on the way home. Please be careful!! Dogs regularly die this way.

Otherwise enjoy the summer folks with some walks focused on clean streams and edges of rivers. Remember to keep well hydrated yourself and enjoy the moment.

Nick Jones MCFBA

www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk

D for Dog answers

[Name] = Bree
[County] = NC
[Country] = United States

[Training Question] = I will be about 14 years old when I get my first dog next summer in the new house we are buying. I will be the primary caregiver for the dog and my mom and step-dad said that I will be 100% responsible for the dog because my parents already have enough stress as is. I am researching different types of dogs and came across the Border Terrier. Different websites say different things about them so I want to know your opinion. Would a Border Terrier dog be good for me based on these factors: I will be at school from 8:00 AM till about 3:30 PM and my mom and step-dad will be at work during that time also -My mom wants me to get a dog with minimal shedding and will not "destroy the house". My mom wants me to get a dog that is not aggressive or does not bark a lot.

Well hello there Bree. I could not resist answering this well written letter that demonstrates some refreshing forethought on the matter of bringing a dog into a home where people have busy lives just as most of us do. Some careful thought now can save you an awful lot of heart ache later on. Despite you being in the States, and me in the UK, the things that you ask apply perfectly well to any person in any country with any dog. So let’s look at these together.

As you may have seen on my main web site I own a Border terrier so I can speak with some knowledge on this lovely breed. A lovely breed yes, but like any breed they can go very wrong if you are not careful. I have seen my fair share of problem Border terriers I can tell you, then again I’ve seen many problem Labradors also, so it all depends on the way you socialise and rear a dog…it’s not always a breed specific issue.

Let’s get this straight, Borders are tough and thick skinned that have a will of their own and the working instinct is strong in them. On the other hand, they are sweet, affectionate, highly intelligent (trainable) and make superb companion dogs in an active and well-balanced household.

So in essence I see no problem with your choice of dog. Let’s address some of the issues you raise in your letter though:

New home. Try to wait until you are all settled in before you introduce a new dog. I would wait at least 4 weeks after moving in before you undertake the big step of introducing (presumably) a puppy.

Primary Care giver. Being a parent myself, I can understand your parents saying this type of thing, but then again all members of the family need to be committed to the care and welfare of a new dog for best results. Of course you can feed, walk, train and play with the dog in the main, but all chip in to help make the dog the best it can be.

Time alone during the day. Based on your timings, the dog will be left for 7 ½ hours each day. I’m sorry to say that this is simply way too long to leave almost any dog let alone a puppy. Only an adult house trained dog can cope with this, and even then it will need to be well settled before it’s left for that period of time in your new home. The only advantage I can see with a puppy is that they do sleep a lot in the early stages, but this ‘honeymoon’ period is soon over after a matter of three or four months as the dog becomes more alert by day and in need of stimulation, play, exercise and training. I’m sorry to dampen your enthusiasm, but this fact alone for me would rule it out. I can tell you I waited for years before I took on my first dog, and looking back I’m glad I waited until everything was just right. I see many behaviour problems in my daily work that are the result of a lack of time invested in the dog. Maybe an older one might be available for you? Do ensure it’s free from behavioural problems though prior to bringing it home.


I would urge you to think very carefully about your daily commitments, and whether you can give enough time to a dog at this time.

IF you are able to overcome these obstacles, we can address your other points:

Minimal shedding? Well unless maintained, Border terriers can be very hairy and I only have to look at mine to be covered in her hair. Admittedly I don’t mess with her coat a great deal, but with regular stripping of the coat and grooming in between she’s not a big problem. Your mother will always be able to tell if the dog has been on her best white bed linen so do be warned J

Destruction of the house? Any dog if left for long periods unsupervised can make it look as if there’s been a party and the skirting boards are left chewed up. A crate from the outset is the way to go until you are confident it can be left uncrated in your absence. In my experience about 9 months is about right to start to offer more responsibility to the dog out of the crate.
Crates can be easily abused, and a puppy most definitely should not be left in one for the period you are at school.

Aggression. The bulk of my work is treating aggressive dog behaviour, and in light of this I can say that IF you spend sufficient time socialising your dog things should go well. You then also need to ensure that you keep it out of harm’s way and prevent it from being attacked by other less friendly dogs. A long line on your puppy in public spaces can greatly increase control whilst you practice lots of recalls in the mean time.
Dog to dog aggression is one thing, but dog to people aggression is another, and in many respects more serious as it’s less well tolerated. If you set in place good boundaries and rules for your dog from the beginning he or she will understand that you are all (as a family) in control and directing its life. This is the best way to ensure there is no confrontation between you and that life goes smoothly. Consider a home visit by a local trainer that is well respected, and these areas can be covered from the outset saving you a great deal of trouble potentially.

Barking. Again, implementing the above can prevent this in the first place. My little Pip is generally very quiet, and will be quiet when I ask if she starts to bark. From the outset I did not allow her to rush to the door barking at the postman or visitors to the home. I have always been loving but strict with her, and she looks to me as the person in charge and is happy to relax and let me run things. It needs to be that way as what’s the alternative?




So, a quick summary for you. No dog should be left that long each day unless it is mature and well balanced.
Wait until you are all settled in the new home before getting a new dog.
The whole family needs to be involved in the care of a dog for best outcome.
A Border requires regular work on its coat to avoid shedding in the home.
Early training and socialisation is key to a well-balanced, aggression free dog.

I can offer you a few links that might amuse/inform you from my Youtube channel. These are all Border terrier based.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCVmtR2XUOY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoLgTr6VxiE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCVmtR2XUOY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pG58qU7fHzQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VYhkLyI85w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkUQILSP3W0

Good luck in your decision and let me know how you get on!

Nick Jones MCFBA
www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk

Questions and answers

Time to add some fresh thoughts here for you. Work is as busy as ever I'm pleased to say. I'm currently working on an internal Newsletter for the CFBA, and this last week I have had two Weimaraner pups here for some additional training...littlermates too, so I'm exhausted frankly. They go home tomorrow morning :)

1) We have two Jack Russell puppies aged five months and they are still not toilet trained. They will relieve themselves in the home without hesitation, please can you help us? Mrs. T Ford. Kidderminster. Worcs.

Taking litter mates from a litter is an understandable decision to make, but unless you have a great deal of time this can prove to be a huge undertaking and it’s not uncommon to see problems such as this arise in later months. This is very often due to the fact that they become more interested in each other than you as the owner. They can become insular and may want to repel other outside influences such as other dogs and people. It can be done, but everything takes more than twice as long as you will need to do train them separately at first to ensure the dog is listening and working for you.
You have noted that they are not toilet trained as they should be by now, so this means coming back to basics. Here a few pointers for you to consider:

• Be sure to take them to a selected place (on leads) every hour.
• Use a key word to encourage toileting. I use ‘Hurry up!’
• Take a tub of special treats with you to reward them after going. Offer physical praise also.
• Do not leave them unattended at any time in your home to avoid accidents. Consider a dog crate for times when you cannot supervise. Vigilance is of paramount importance.
• Avoid scolding for indoor accidents, just swiftly remove the dog to the chosen place outside and try to finish there.
• Remain calm and persistent; it will come good in the end.
  
  

2) I have a 20-week-old poodle that hates me to close the back of the hatchback down before we drive away. Once we are driving she is calm and quiet, but otherwise she really dislikes me closing the hatch. Can you offer some guidance here please? Mr. R. Harris. Manchester.

I favour using short leads in the back of the car to allow you to clip the dog to when placing the dog in the boot. This prevents unnecessary movement, and the potential to clamber over into the vehicle as you drive along. It will also prevent dashing out when you open the lid at your destination. The lead can often be tied back to a D ring on the floor that is there for luggage straps. A dog of this age and size should be fine on a 24” line.

So, with this set up and placed on your dog, you can then set about getting her used to the lid being closed. Seek to do the whole thing gradually by raising your arm to partly and then close the lid by 50% for example, then release it and feed the dog a part of its meal or some special treat food you have arranged for calm behaviour.
Each time you go to close the lid you can show an open flat hand to the dog as you issue the ‘Stay’ command.
Repeat this about five times to gauge her reaction, once you feel that she is looking calm and relaxed you can go for a 75% closure and repeat as above. Very soon you should be able to close the lid fully, lifting the lid and then treating for calm behaviour. Once you are at this stage you can then offer the ‘Stay’ command through the glass as you then begin to build the time up gradually. Count to five initially and then raise the lid and treat. In the spirit of gradual progress, you can again then build these times up gradually so that the dog is relaxed with the lid down between you for up to one minute. Once you have that cracked you should be home and dry. You can then proceed to get in the car and drive. A rear-seated passenger can keep an eye on her to offer rewards occasionally for calm in car behaviour and to ensure she remains in the down position when driving.

3) I have a 2-year-old female Staffie that refuses to leave me alone in the house. She will follow me around everywhere, and I sense she is not as relaxed as she could be. I cannot even take a shower in peace…please help! Mr. A. Rose. Chichester. W. Sussex.

Dogs are of course social creatures that like company, and this is why they are such good companions to us. As I write here in the office, Pip my Border terrier is on the floor behind me trying to keep cool. Very often this behaviour is in essence allowed and encouraged by not placing boundaries on a dog’s movements from an early age. It is nice to have a dog near by as a companion, but this can as you’re experiencing then become too much and neither of you can truly relax for long. So it’s always prudent to set time aside for a young dog each day where it is left alone and cannot follow you to all rooms in the home.
I used to do just this with my Pip when she was young, and even now she is not allowed (unless invited) to enter any bedroom, the kitchen or dining room. Otherwise she can move freely to find a place that suits her. This has helped set up a balance in her mind whereby she accepts that she cannot be with me at all times.
To overcome your issue may be a simple case of simply telling her to stay as you close the door (she may protest a little), or you may find that her refusal to stay quietly behind is harder to ignore and much noisier than you can accept. On the basis that she does not take well to being refused access to all rooms with you, I can offer the following pointers:

• Start by simply telling her to ‘Stay’ and close the door behind you. Then re-enter the room without pause initially, and ignore her as you re enter, staying there until she is looking calm and still. This method is usually very effective for me, and the trick is to very slowly build up the time with the door closed and the two of you apart. You can do a number of these back to back counting when you are the other side of the door to keep a measure of the time apart she can cope with before she becomes vocal. This should gradually increase. Use this technique on different doors to different rooms in the home that you are experiencing problems with. It is important to ignore her upon being with the dog again; this helps show your dog that there is no big difference in being with or apart from you. Do avoid going back in when she is protesting, otherwise you will reward her noisy efforts-only ever return to a quiet dog.
• You can break her daily food intake down into a number of smaller meals, and feed them through a food pyramid or Buster cube to distract her for longer periods of time as you leave her alone in a room. Aim for four or five sessions like this each day if at all possible.
• Long term prevent access to the rooms that you require her to be prevented from entering by ensuring the doors are closed and she cannot enter of her own accord.

www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk

Nervous aggressive dog behaviour.

Nervous aggressive behaviour.

This is usually the result of a dog that has had insufficient socialisation in its formative months and years, and/or a negative event with another dog. This can happen on a number of occasions, leading to an even more fearful dog as time progresses. Some dogs seem to have a demeanour that attract other dogs, and for some of those dogs to attack it. I suspect that dogs attack a fear-based output from some fearful dogs, and this then leads to a more ingrained behaviour on the attacked dog’s part. The dog can then adopt an ‘offence is the best form of defence’ approach. Once it learns that this results in other dogs moving away with an owner that naturally wouldn’t want to become involved, the dog again learns the value of such behaviour and perpetuates it more and more with great effect.

Fear based aggression is (as I see it) a relatively modern phenomenon, and reflects back upon our more insular lifestyles and lack of time available to pay proper attention to the socialisation process. With less and less time to address areas of training and socialisation the strain is showing in our dog population.
It is not unusual to see figures quoted that 80-90% of dog to dog aggression (indeed dog to people with strangers) is a fear based behaviour. I can well believe these figures, and they are borne out in my own experience.

I have for some time described fear based aggression as being virus-like in its manner of spreading from one dog to another, with each newly attacked dog going on to become sensitised (depending on the dog’s nature and owner’s level of control) and displaying similar behaviour towards other dogs.

Many owners with young pups fall into the trap of not giving full and correct control when in the park and are unable to recall the dog prior to allowing it to run freely in the local park. This is rather like allowing the dog into the snake pit, with a number of other dogs near by that are unknown as a quantity, and that may pass this ‘virus’ onto the young dog. Developing a sound leader based relationship; a strong recall combined with a long line is certainly far sounder than the practices of many unthinking (albeit well intended) new dog owners that simply allow the dog to run freely from day 1.

www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk

The Ignore...Learning to know when.

The above picture was taken recently in a consultation with a German Shepherd cross hound.

What you're seeing is the husband of a couple ignoring the best efforts of his dog to get his attention! Isn't he doing well?!

Notice a few things:
1) The toy near the dog that was used as an early effort to get people's attention.
2) The lead on the dog to aid a quick control if needed (and it was a number of times in the first hour or more!)
3) The perfect ignore by a determined client!

Is this really necessary with most dogs? Well, the short answer is no. The work and dogs I'm involved with is at the more complicated end of dog behaviour. This dog had worked itself into a stressful state based on a cycle of attention seeking that was being rewarded by attention from the owner. By use of the ignore the dog shown had settled from being somewhat 'mad' to becoming settled and more focused in a relatively short time.

I cannot emphasise enough that the behaviour you mark with attention (even negative attention can mark it) will reinforce the behaviour and you're likely to see more of it. Simple.
The difficulty comes with the fact that we as humans do not ignore, and dogs understand and respond to it far better than we can. You won't hurt your dog's feeling if you ignore it :)
I'm talking about selective ignoring of unwanted behaviours. Some of course cannot be ignored, and we may need to intervene in a calm way free from aggressive intent.

I also advocate the ignore upon homecomings. This is nothing to do with wolf behaviour (I know little about wolves...I work with dogs and humans) as I know it; it's just a simple case of waiting for the behaviour we do want, and to mark that behaviour in a calm way.

There you are. A few thoughts on what I felt was super picture that says more words than I can write here.

Sincere thanks to the gent in the picture.

Nick Jones MCFBA

Alpha Dog Behaviour

Toileting away from the home...

[Name] = Jo
[County] = Surrey
[Country] = England
[Training Question] = I have been walking my neighbour’s dog for about a year now, he’s a border/cairn terrier cross and is a rescue dog. He won't do a bowel movement in his back garden, only doing so when he's on his walk. This is causing his owner a lot of problems as his owner has mobility problems and finds it difficult to get the dog out three times a day to go to the toilet and it would be much easier for him if he would go in the back garden. The dog had this problem since coming to his owner three years ago, and this is his third home. His owner has no solid information on the dog’s first home, but thinks that he was punished for going to the toilet in his back garden. Is there anyway to change this behaviour so that he will do a bowel movement in his back garden and on the walk?

Hello Jo, and thank you for this interesting question for D For Dog.

This is not the first time I have been asked this, and whilst he is having a chance to eliminate when on walks away from the home, it is indeed difficult to stop such behaviour. Bare in mind that it’s normal and desirable for a dog to eliminate away from its living habitat, and so in many respects the dog does not have a behavioural problem. This also suggests that the dog was not necessarily punished for doing so at his previous home. A behaviour problem is only classified as such when it affects the owner and their lifestyle. In the circumstances I can see that this does present some frustrations.

Should the dog eliminate when outside away from the home, there is nothing that can or should be done. Simply pick up as normal and carry on.
The best thing is to reward the behaviour we do want. This would involve you both agreeing a key word to use when the dog does relieves itself at any time or place to build an association towards that word. I like the term ‘Hurry up’. Though any clear term would work just as well. My own dogs are trained to go on command, though this takes time from puppy-hood to get right.

One method would be to not take the dog outside for a week and to put it in such a position so that it has to go outside within the owner’s grounds. The owner must be with the dog as soon as it goes ready to reward with food (assuming the dog is food driven). Something liked cooked liver or any other high value meat based product can get the message home that you’re happy and you approve. Some dogs are mad for the favourite tennis ball for example, so use this also if you think it will help. Simply throw the ball to reward the pooing in the garden! Play with the dog for a few minutes, and then come back in.

Not taking the dog out for a week will have effects on the dog’s energy levels, so the owner will need to interact with the dog more in the home. Feeding the dog through a treat ball or similar can be a good start, and working on a few simple yet enjoyable fetch games can also relieve the energy.

See how you get on with this approach, and feel free to contact me directly if this needs modifying.

Good luck.

Nick Jones MCFBA. Alpha Dog Behaviour