Separation anxiety in dogs. Back to basics.

What causes dogs who are home alone to become destructive?

This actually depends on the base reason for the destruction. For example, is the dog young and bored and being destructive? Is the dog older and simply under exercised? Or and most importantly is the dog anxious about being left alone (separation anxiety) and being destructive as a means of displacement behaviour?

Video and audio evidence usually allows the owner to establish which of the above is true and then to decide a way forward. The first options are relatively easy to address, whereas the separation anxiety requires delicate handling to ensure that the right measures are being offered to swiftly overcome the problem for the dog.

I'd like to add that dogs that suffer from separation anxiety are not just destructive. The behaviour I have found is dealt with in different ways with different dogs. Some are destructive to the home eating their way through doors and walls given enough time, some are very vocal by barking, whining or a full on howl. Some may mess in their environment and some may self harm by licking or chewing the coat or paws and so on.

What can be done to keep stress at a minimum?

In an ideal world we would start to proof the dog to cope to be alone when it is young by the early introduction and use of a crate and to then build up time alone in the home which should be seen as a positive event with an opportunity to sleep after exercise, eating and toileting.

We don't have this luxury with a rescue or older dog for example and so then a programme to overcome the stress needs to be put together to move the dog gradually into a calmer mind set when left alone. 

There are probably two main factors to consider when addressing separation anxiety cases . One is the relationship that the owner maintains with the dog and the other is finding a way to gradually increase the time the dog can cope when left alone so that it resembles an acceptable period that the owner is likely to require when going shopping or out for an evening and so on.

Over bonding is possible with a dog and this can result from an owner that is unable to disengage from the dog at times and is constantly looking at, touching and talking to the dog either to please the owner or in response to the dog's efforts and wishes. To address this aspect effectively the owner often needs guidance from me to learn some simple fresh rules to follow to engage with the dog. We are likely to also look at other areas where overbonding can occur and this would involve making an assessment on where the dog sleeps at night and where it is able to rest during the day.

To increase time alone I usually involve a feeding system via a stuffed Kong and combine this with various other techniques that are called 'Rapid Returns' and also to place the dog on an 'Attention Diet'. The rapid returns begin at a matter of seconds depending on the severity of the condition whereby the owner goes in and out of a room and notes the behaviour both sides of a closed door, increasing the time away from the dog as it improves in the process. The attention diet is a set programme whereby I guide the owner through how to ignore at first and to then reintroduce attention (on the owner's terms) as the dog improves. I find the above combination (along with numerous other well balanced measures) a highly effective approach, although it should be said that some cases of separation anxiety require weeks if not months of work on the owner's part, so a determined and consistent approach is often needed.

What sort of toys do you recommend to keep your dog’s mind active?

Interestingly, provided the dog is being left for a reasonable period of time (up to four hours for an adult dog) I would like to think the dog is quiet and resting or asleep even. This is said in the view that the dog will have been exercised, fed and watered and given toilet breaks before leaving the dog for that period. Having said that, I am in favour of dogs working for their food and the gradual release of the dog's food via a Kong or similar device can be invaluable.

How would you advise introducing a crate to a dog?

This should be done when the dog is young and it will see the crate as a calm, secure place to be. With older dogs, a slightly longer approach will be required whereby feeding in the crate is helpful and to only close the door for short periods during the day and to seek to increase these periods as the dog progresses. Covering the crate with a sheet can help some to create a greater sense of security and quiet.

If your dog is left at home and destroys something, sometimes it can look ‘guilty’- is this possible? Is it worth shouting at your dog after the event has already happened?

Although I understand the owner's frustration at damage when they return home, to berate the dog will only serve to cause concern towards the owner and the way they can behave in an unpredictable and at times frighteneing manner. A dog is unable to understand the values a human places of 'things' and has no idea what an iPhone or remote control does or costs to give an example. Young dogs need supervision and containing for sensible periods of time, hence the use of a crate. The same goes for soiling in the home. This will not be improved by becoming angry with the dog. The dog is likely to conclude that it just should not have done its business 'there' but 'over-there' instead. Taking time to reward and mark the behaviour we do want to see is the best way forward in this respect. An interruption sound such as a clap-clap can work should you find your dog doing something unwanted in the home and then a calm redirection to a suitable area is quite acceptable. The trick is to stay calm and collected and to try to 'think dog' and hopefully my above notes will help this thinking.

Questions and answers

Time to add some fresh thoughts here for you. Work is as busy as ever I'm pleased to say. I'm currently working on an internal Newsletter for the CFBA, and this last week I have had two Weimaraner pups here for some additional training...littlermates too, so I'm exhausted frankly. They go home tomorrow morning :)

1) We have two Jack Russell puppies aged five months and they are still not toilet trained. They will relieve themselves in the home without hesitation, please can you help us? Mrs. T Ford. Kidderminster. Worcs.

Taking litter mates from a litter is an understandable decision to make, but unless you have a great deal of time this can prove to be a huge undertaking and it’s not uncommon to see problems such as this arise in later months. This is very often due to the fact that they become more interested in each other than you as the owner. They can become insular and may want to repel other outside influences such as other dogs and people. It can be done, but everything takes more than twice as long as you will need to do train them separately at first to ensure the dog is listening and working for you.
You have noted that they are not toilet trained as they should be by now, so this means coming back to basics. Here a few pointers for you to consider:

• Be sure to take them to a selected place (on leads) every hour.
• Use a key word to encourage toileting. I use ‘Hurry up!’
• Take a tub of special treats with you to reward them after going. Offer physical praise also.
• Do not leave them unattended at any time in your home to avoid accidents. Consider a dog crate for times when you cannot supervise. Vigilance is of paramount importance.
• Avoid scolding for indoor accidents, just swiftly remove the dog to the chosen place outside and try to finish there.
• Remain calm and persistent; it will come good in the end.
  
  

2) I have a 20-week-old poodle that hates me to close the back of the hatchback down before we drive away. Once we are driving she is calm and quiet, but otherwise she really dislikes me closing the hatch. Can you offer some guidance here please? Mr. R. Harris. Manchester.

I favour using short leads in the back of the car to allow you to clip the dog to when placing the dog in the boot. This prevents unnecessary movement, and the potential to clamber over into the vehicle as you drive along. It will also prevent dashing out when you open the lid at your destination. The lead can often be tied back to a D ring on the floor that is there for luggage straps. A dog of this age and size should be fine on a 24” line.

So, with this set up and placed on your dog, you can then set about getting her used to the lid being closed. Seek to do the whole thing gradually by raising your arm to partly and then close the lid by 50% for example, then release it and feed the dog a part of its meal or some special treat food you have arranged for calm behaviour.
Each time you go to close the lid you can show an open flat hand to the dog as you issue the ‘Stay’ command.
Repeat this about five times to gauge her reaction, once you feel that she is looking calm and relaxed you can go for a 75% closure and repeat as above. Very soon you should be able to close the lid fully, lifting the lid and then treating for calm behaviour. Once you are at this stage you can then offer the ‘Stay’ command through the glass as you then begin to build the time up gradually. Count to five initially and then raise the lid and treat. In the spirit of gradual progress, you can again then build these times up gradually so that the dog is relaxed with the lid down between you for up to one minute. Once you have that cracked you should be home and dry. You can then proceed to get in the car and drive. A rear-seated passenger can keep an eye on her to offer rewards occasionally for calm in car behaviour and to ensure she remains in the down position when driving.

3) I have a 2-year-old female Staffie that refuses to leave me alone in the house. She will follow me around everywhere, and I sense she is not as relaxed as she could be. I cannot even take a shower in peace…please help! Mr. A. Rose. Chichester. W. Sussex.

Dogs are of course social creatures that like company, and this is why they are such good companions to us. As I write here in the office, Pip my Border terrier is on the floor behind me trying to keep cool. Very often this behaviour is in essence allowed and encouraged by not placing boundaries on a dog’s movements from an early age. It is nice to have a dog near by as a companion, but this can as you’re experiencing then become too much and neither of you can truly relax for long. So it’s always prudent to set time aside for a young dog each day where it is left alone and cannot follow you to all rooms in the home.
I used to do just this with my Pip when she was young, and even now she is not allowed (unless invited) to enter any bedroom, the kitchen or dining room. Otherwise she can move freely to find a place that suits her. This has helped set up a balance in her mind whereby she accepts that she cannot be with me at all times.
To overcome your issue may be a simple case of simply telling her to stay as you close the door (she may protest a little), or you may find that her refusal to stay quietly behind is harder to ignore and much noisier than you can accept. On the basis that she does not take well to being refused access to all rooms with you, I can offer the following pointers:

• Start by simply telling her to ‘Stay’ and close the door behind you. Then re-enter the room without pause initially, and ignore her as you re enter, staying there until she is looking calm and still. This method is usually very effective for me, and the trick is to very slowly build up the time with the door closed and the two of you apart. You can do a number of these back to back counting when you are the other side of the door to keep a measure of the time apart she can cope with before she becomes vocal. This should gradually increase. Use this technique on different doors to different rooms in the home that you are experiencing problems with. It is important to ignore her upon being with the dog again; this helps show your dog that there is no big difference in being with or apart from you. Do avoid going back in when she is protesting, otherwise you will reward her noisy efforts-only ever return to a quiet dog.
• You can break her daily food intake down into a number of smaller meals, and feed them through a food pyramid or Buster cube to distract her for longer periods of time as you leave her alone in a room. Aim for four or five sessions like this each day if at all possible.
• Long term prevent access to the rooms that you require her to be prevented from entering by ensuring the doors are closed and she cannot enter of her own accord.

www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk